Windshield Washer Pumps

If some people had their way, you’d be driving a small hybrid powered vehicle with no choice of other types of cars to own. While a gas-electric hybrid is fine for some folks, the majority of American drivers want the power and responsive of a trusty internal combustion engine and are not interested in being told which kind of car they must drive. Yet, saving on gas is a universal concern one that nearly every driver considers each time he or she stands at the gas pump. I doubt that there are many folks who give no thought to paying $3 per gallon for gasoline and fill ups costing $40, $60, even $80 or more are no fun. While you can’t control OPEC, you can squeeze more mileage out of your current vehicle thereby reducing your pain at the pump. Read on and we’ll explore several sensible and sane fuel saving options that can help you today:

Easy on the Brakes. If you slam on the brakes, chances are you also press the pedal to the medal. Jackrabbit starts will get you there, but you’ll also gobble up more gasoline than you can imagine. Ease up on the gas pedal and you could see your fuel economy jump by 3 to 5%.

Keep it Inflated. Tires that need to be inflated are tires that rob your car of fuel. Some auto experts have said that improperly inflated tires can drop your fuel economy from 10 to 15%. The next time you gas up, check the tires as well as the gas, oil, and windshield washer fluid.

Change the Air Filter. Air filters work to keep dirt out of your engine, but they can also sap your engine of horsepower if you do not change them at regular intervals. Better yet, purchase a reusable performance air filter and you’ll have an air filter that breaths better and is good for the environment. You simply clean and reuse the same air filter over and over again. Watch your fuel economy jump 2 to 5% with a clean, reusable air filter in place.

Tune it Up. Today’s engines do not require frequent tune ups, but spark plugs still need to be changed as warranted by the manufacturer. Keep the timing right and you’ll notice your fuel takes you further.

Change the Oil. Old oil and an old oil filter can harm your engine and make your engine work harder. An engine that has to work harder burns more fuel. Keep a close look at your oil and change it at regular intervals.

Slow Down, When You Can. Going 60 mph is more efficient than 70mph with most cars running optimally at speeds ranging from 55 to 65 mph. Fuel savings of about 10% can be achieved by staying within recommended parameters.

Start and Drive. There is no need for you to warm up your car anymore. Today’s vehicles can hit the road right away without needing to sit in the driveway idling and eating up gas.

Regular v. Premium Gas. Unless your vehicle manufacturer specifically says so, opt for regular unleaded versus premium unleaded gas. You’ll save as much as a quarter over the price of premium and still have a vehicle that operates optimally.

Once you are ready to turn your car in for a new model, then consider what’s available at that time to further reduce your overall gas consumption. No, fuel prices aren’t likely to drop below $2 per gallon again, but you can save at the pump by following the eight tips outlined herein.

Copyright 2006 – Matthew C. Keegan is a freelance automotive writer covering new products and current models. Please visit the Tornado Fuel saver page to learn about additional ways you can improve your vehicle’s fuel economy. Check out Tornado products to find out what they have to offer you.

Most of our mobile washing competitors are the enemy. Not because they are evil, but because if you are also in the business they will do anything to get your customers. They will obviously be impressed with image if you have a classy rig and be little intimidated; you should use this to your advantage to keep them at bay. I can tell you that most of our mobile car wash competitors (I run a business called the Car Wash Guys), operate out of short bed pick up trucks can’t use 5.0 hp Craftsmen Shop Vacs or small 5 X 7 foot trailers. Either way there is just not enough room. If a competitor has a short bed pick up, he will be inefficient and clumsy, moving stuff around every time they wash a car. This will take time; time costs money. Being all discombuberated is also very irritating for the operator. This type of competitor fits our perfect competitor profile of $150-200 per day gross sales with heavy Friday and Saturday routes of up to $300-500. They try hard, but they can’t be too serious about their business in a short bed pick up truck. When all of the car washing equipment is close together things break. Such as:

Extension cord melts on exhaust of generator

Towels burn up on exhaust of pressure washer

When pulling out pressure washer hose it catches on controls of generator or

linkage to engine ripping them off

Vacuum falls out of truck because tail gate is down while moving between cars

Vacuum hose melts on exhaust or gets smashed between truck and tank when going around corners

Brakes on truck are warn out due to the extra weight of water

Leaf springs permanently inverted due to over weight of payload

Front of truck smashed due to reduced stopping distance (due to violation of the laws of physics)

Inside of truck bed blackened and ruined from exhaust of pump

Front tires warn out due to alignment being off because of change in weight in truck

Bed of truck dents back of cab because water tank half full moves around too much

Towels fly out of truck on freeway, no space for them

Containers low on product fly out

Products get stolen at night out of truck

Gas cans (plastic type) one to five gallons tip over and get on towels and if present a bed liner. They stain and mix with water every time it gets wet. Towels streak windows.

Since our company has had all these things already happen to us we have designed our units so these things do not happen to him. If you are smart you will think about these things as you design your mobile car wash rig. We refer to Murphy’s Law when it comes to operations. “If it can break, it will.” It’s only a matter of time. And just because you fix it, it doesn’t mean it can’t happen again. Every thing needs to be in its space for a reason. It’s not that Murphy doesn’t live in our trucks too, he does. It’s just that he has nothing to do. So he sleeps all day. The best thing to do is to drive up next to a competitor real close and slow. Then Murphy can jump out into their truck. He’ll have much more fun.

Play it smart and realize that when you design and build your own car wash rig that you need to make sure none of these things can occur and build your rig to best service your customers. Make sure the signage, logo and colors all match, besides, if you put a competitor’s truck next to your mobile car wash rig, there is no comparison. It’s the ultimate intimidation; which will help you from having them attempt to walk in and try to steal your clientele at office buildings. If you do not take care of these issues they are major obstacles to overcome when you start your business. Think about these things as you design your mobile car wash rig and start putting a pencil to graph paper to insure everything will fit right and be efficient and easy to use.

“Lance Winslow” – Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/. Lance is an online writer in retirement.

If you are lucky enough to live in a warm climate you may not have to worry about this, but for many winterizing your car is essential. Not getting ready for winter weather puts you at risk unnecessarily. The good thing is that these steps take almost no time at all and are not going to be to hard on your wallet.

Here are some common sense ways to prepare you for cold weather:

Check your Anti-Freeze. One of the most important things you can do is check your Anti-freeze. You should have your anti-freeze tested at least 2 times a year. You will probably want to change it at least every 30,000 miles or every 2 years. This keeps it at peak performance and prevents it from breaking down. Usually you will want to have it diluted with water. A 50/50 mix is the normal ratio but the simple directions on your specific brand of anti-freeze will tell you exactly what the proper mix is.

Pressure Check for Leaks. When you change your anti-freeze you may want to pressure check the system. This will wash away any impurities, mineral deposits and rust that may eventually clog the system. While in there, check for any visible leaks around the hoses and clamps. You will also want to make sure the belts are tight and not frayed. One main reason you want to do this is because there is belt that drives the water pump. If the belt is not circulating it does not matter how new or unclogged your system is because you will have problems. Having the cooling system checked regularly can save a lot of heartache in the future and prevent you from walking in the snow instead of driving in it.

Check the Battery. Another important part to check is the battery. Cold weather sucks the life right out of a car battery. The performance of the battery is decreased – a lot. Fortunately you can have your battery tested to make sure it is at peak performance. You can bring your vehicle to most local service stations and have the battery and electrical system tested. If the battery is over 3 years old this may be a good idea.

Where does you car fit for injury theft and collision? What about your dream car? Take a look at this run down based on 2000-2002 HLDI data:

You can also visually inspect your battery and make sure the contacts do not have corrosion on them. Most new batteries are maintenance free, but it is a good idea to check. Make sure the water level is filled correctly and if it needs more use distilled water to level it off. Since the battery can lose its charge in cold weather, you may want to get a plug-in charger. With this you plug it in at night and attach it to your battery. In the morning you will be assured of a charged battery. This can make the difference between getting to work on time or not. Portable versions are also available which can be kept in the car as you travel. You will then be able to jump the battery if it does not have enough power to get anywhere on its own.

Oil. You can switch to lighter oil in the bitter cold months. This will offer quicker lubrication of the engine parts during colder periods.

Tires. Tires are important also. Some tires are all weather and give you decent traction in the snow. For those that are not you may either want to switch to all weather tires or get specially made snow tires. These have better traction but are not made for prolonged normal road use. Another option is attaching snow chains to tires for increased traction.

Windshield Blades. Having proper windshield wiper blades can also save you a lot of heartache as well. These should be changed as you change your oil. Being able to see in a snowstorm is just as important as having your car start. Proper visibility is key to accident avoidance.

Items you should have in the car as well to winterize it are: gloves, deicer, ice scraper, anti-freeze, windshield washer fluid (to de-ice as you drive), salt or sand, old rug for tire traction, shovel, car cover (to prevent icing) cell phone (you might need to call for help), flashlight and extra wiper blades.

All of these preventative measures are easy and not expensive compared to the time and money you will spend fixing problems instead of avoiding them.

Visit http://www.carinsurance.com – For A Reliable Automobile Insurance Company

James Diaz is a representative of CarInsurance.com. You can visit CarInsurance.com at http://www.carinsurance.com or contact them at 1-877-327-8728.

CarInsurance.com’s online insurance marketplace gives an opportunity to consumers and to insurance companies. We offer the ability to shop for car insurance online.

Consumers can receive quotes from many insurance companies, in some states you are able to purchase your insurance instantly, online. You don’t have to drive your car to buy car insurance. Buy online… anytime!

Your RV has been sitting idle over the winter. Now the early signs of spring are here and it’s time to take it out of storage and prepare the coach and chassis for this years camping season. If you’re like me, you want to have some type of logical sequence to follow rather then haphazardly checking the unit out. I made a simple checklist to use so that nothing is overlooked. I prefer to do the majority of spring preparation myself. If you’re more comfortable having someone else do it you can schedule an appointment with a reputable RV service center to have it done.

* Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze you need to run fresh water through the entire system until all traces of antifreeze are gone. To remove it from the 12-volt water pump add water to the fresh water-holding tank, turn the pump on and open all water faucets. When the antifreeze is out of the system turn the pump off and take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). Re-install any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.

* At this point I like to sanitize the water system. Make sure all of the drains are closed and drain plugs are installed. Take a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach with water into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water holding tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on and open all faucets, run water until you smell the bleach. Close the faucets and let it sit for at least twelve hours. Drain all of the water and re-fill the tank with fresh water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets until you no longer smell bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate all signs of the bleach.

* With the water system under pressure inspect for water leaks. Check the operation of the toilet.

* Wash the unit thoroughly. This is a good time to inspect the roof and body seams, and window sealants for cracking that would allow water to get in. Consult a dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

* Inspect the operation of the awning and clean the awning fabric as required.

* Inspect the tires for signs of dry rot. Inflate all tires to the recommended COLD tire pressure.

* Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.

* Remove any tape or protective covering you may have put over LP gas vents to keep insects and rodents out. Check any mousetraps you may have put out. Open all doors and compartments and check for rodent intrusion and water damage.

* Inspect and clean the interior.

* Plug in any appliances that you unplugged for storage and replace any dry cell batteries you may have removed. This is a good time to put new batteries in items like smoke alarms.

* Test the operation of the carbon monoxide alarm, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm.

* Check the fire extinguisher. Be sure it is fully charged.

* Reset any breakers you may have turned off. If you removed any fuses for storage re-install them.

* Clean or replace air conditioner filters if it wasn’t done prior to storage and remove any covers that were put over air conditioners.

* Open vents and windows and air the unit out.

* If you removed the coach and chassis batteries for storage install them. Whether they were removed or not check the electrolyte levels, clean the terminals and clamps, and check the charge level in all batteries. Recharge batteries as necessary.

* Check the operation of the electric steps if applicable. Lubricate step mechanism.

* Test the operation of the hydraulic jacks if applicable. Check hydraulic fluid level.

* Test the operation of the back up camera and monitor if applicable.

* If you didn’t change the oil and filters in the generator prior to storage this is a good time to do it. Inspect the generator exhaust system for damage prior to starting. Start and run the generator for two hours with at least a half rated load on it. Consult the generators owner manual for load ratings.

* Turn the generator off and plug the unit into shore power. Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode. Allow sufficient time to cool and check for proper operation.

* Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories.

* Test the monitor panel for proper operation.

* Check the operation of slide outs if applicable.

* Check the remaining 120-volt appliances for proper operation.

* Test the Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) for proper operation.

* Turn the refrigerator off, leave the doors open and allow sufficient time for it to get to room temperature so it can be checked in the gas mode.

* Before I use the LP gas system I have a leak test and gas operating pressure test preformed. A qualified technician with the proper equipment should do these tests.

* After this is accomplished turn the LP gas valve on and check the operation of all LP gas appliances. Be sure the water heater is full of water before testing the water heater. If a gas appliance is not operating properly have it inspected by a qualified technician. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas and build nests that can affect the appliance from operating properly.

* If your unit was in long-term storage and you didn’t change the engine oil and filter prior to storage this would be a good time to do it.

* Check all fluid levels in transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult vehicle owners manual.

* Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check for proper operation of dash air conditioner.

* Perform a complete chassis lubrication if it wasn’t done prior to storage.

* Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and replace them if necessary.

* Check the operation of all chassis lights.

* Make sure the vehicle emissions/inspection sticker is up to date.

* In addition to this if you have a pop-up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for damage. Inspect the breakaway switch and pigtail for proper operation.

Happy Camping ,

Mark

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America’s most highly regarded series of DVD’s, videos, books, and e-books. www.rveducation101.com/

Mark Polk is a retired U.S. Army Chief Warrant Officer Three, specializing in wheeled and track vehicle fleet maintenance operations. In addition to owning and operating RV Education 101, (based in North Carolina) since 1999, Polk also has a very extensive RV background working in RV service, sales and management. Polk has a degree in Industrial Management Technology and his 30 plus years of experience in maintenance includes working as an RV technician, a wheeled vehicle and power generation mechanic, an automotive maintenance technician, Battalion and Brigade level Maintenance Officer, an RV sales manager and also in the RV financing department as the Finance & Insurance manager. www.rveducation101.com/